MAY 2008 TASTING: MALBEC

SWIG initiates its wine tastings with a flight of 5 Malbecs and a surprise winner from, get this, north of the border.

The wines were rated by 7 tasters.

(79 points, flaw) 2004 Terrazas Reserva Malbec, $20. Though reviewed positively on other websites, our bottle of Terrazas Reserva had a very mild but unpleasant musty nose and lingering bitter/musty off-flavor in the finish. A second bottle was opened; it had the same characteristics but worse. Of other flavors that could be assessed, tasters noted that this wine was somewhat faded and had a smokier, more cedary, softer profile than the three that follow, with red berry/currant fruit reminiscent of Cabernet.

It is likely that the spoilage in these bottles was due to poor storage by a retailer/wholesaler in Argentina where the wine was purchased, but SWIG would opt for a newer vintage if trying this one again.

(80 points) 2008 Alamos Malbec, $10. If the Terrazas might have been too old, the Alamos Malbec was likely too young. Tasters noted pepper and bell pepper in the nose and mouth and found the wine easy drinking and simple but also a bit green tannic and sharp. This was the least fruity wine of the bunch. A year in the bottle might calm the tannins and bring more fruit forward, or might see general mellowing but the fruit fade. On the whole this isn't one for sweating those kind of details. It is easy enough to drink and maybe easier to move on to the next one.

(81 Points) 2008 Argento Malbec, $12. Our next finisher split the tester along lines of those who like old-world wines and those preferring the more typical South American new-world style Malbec. The fruit in this lighter-bodied, slightly paler wine was repeatedly described as tart, upfront strawberry, cherry and even cranberry, backed by tobacco, minerality, and floral notes. it finished with some acid astringency. Comparing it to a Gamay in the Beaujolais Cru style is not a stretch.

SWIG can recommend Argento Malbec to those who like french wines and as a food wine -- it defines "table wine." It might match well with salmon and it has the acid to cut mild, fattier meats like duck (which no one actually eats, right?) and pork shoulder or heavy pastas. If you like a more juicy, low acid Malbec steer clear of this one.

(84 Points, QPR winner) 2008 Viu Manent Malbec, $5.50. The best value for price wine of the night was the Viu Manent. A simple bottle, the nose nevertheless inspired a wide-variety of descriptors -- earth, cherry, straw -- and the taste likewise -- dark cherries, purple fruit, mushroom, all backed by greenish tannin. Some tasters noted that this one was a bit hot and that it had a very slight off smell and taste described variously as sulphur, wet-dog and yogurt, but really a barely noticeable and less so at the price.

SWIG recommends Viu Manent Malbec to casual wine consumers looking for a decent quaff that will not punish at the register or in the glass. If you are looking be impressed, or to impressed others, move on.

(91 Points, WOTN) 2007 Blasted Church Malbec/Syrah, $36 MSRP. The run away wine of the night was the 2007 Blasted Church Malbec/Syrah from the Canadian Okanogon Valley. This wine was more highly extracted than the rest, with a bigger, more perfumed nose showing both it 60% Malbec character (plum, green pepper), as well as 40% Syrah smells (berry, spice, smoke), backed by a nice dose of slightly funky, distinctively Northwestern terroir (French for how the dirt the grapes grow in makes them smell and taste, or thereabouts). The flavors reflected the same, with a bit of the Malbec's greenish tannin covered nicely by the ripe Syrah. The wine was smooth and long and showed class all the way around. It is soft and low-acid but but restrained enough to be food friendly if you don't push the pairing. The producer recommends lamb, and a year or two of bottle rest, not to exceed 5.

SWIG recommends this bottle to anyone who is interested in good, small batch wines from obscure producers. Show up to a dinner party with this one and you'll have brought crowd-pleaser and sure conversation starter ("Malbec? from Canada?!")

(tasted, not rated) 2005 Clos De Los Siete, Monteviejo, $30. This one was popped and tasted at the end of the evening in place of the spoiled Terrazas, and is a good example of the big, luxe style Argentina can favor in more prestigious bottles. Mostly Malbec with a touch of Syrah, this one is deep, inky purple, highly-extracted. Nose: plum, violets, mocha, vanilla, spice. Taste dark fruits, vanilla and oak, long, rich and dense. This wine was fully ripe and heavily oaked. It could benefit from more time in the bottle if the fruit doesn't die before the tannins mellow a bit, but it is balanced regardless -- by no means an unrefined wine.

SWIG says this is good one if you like big, smooth ripe wine with big, sweet-tannic oakiness. If you are a fan of, say, big California cabs this is your Malbec. Serve it with a monster steak as this will road grade all foods less macho. At the moment it's on sale for 20 bucks at K&L -- solid QPR at that price.